Saturday, February 26, 2011

Black Hair Care Blog

Black Hair Care Blog

I found a new blog site by another curly girl! I enjoyed her comments and thought I would share with my viewers!

Enjoy,

CurLillies

Black History of African Hair

 In honor of black history month, I thought we should look back on our hair history. I pulled this article from Wikipedia. Pay special attention to the controversy surrounding natural hair in professional America and the reasons why we choose to straighten our hair. I think this article is a very good representation of the conflict we as a people, no matter how you wear your hair, in America.

Enjoy!

CurLillies




Afro-textured hair

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Prominent Ghanaian economist and author George Ayittey with natural afro-textured hair.

Afro-textured hair is a term used to refer to the typical texture of Black African hair that has not been altered by hot combs, flat irons, or chemicals (by perming, relaxing, or straightening). Each strand of this hair type grows in a tiny spring-like, corkscrew shape. The overall effect is such that, despite relatively fewer actual hair shafts compared to straight hair,[1] this texture appears (and feels) denser than its straight counterparts. Due to this, it is often referred to as 'thick', 'bushy', 'coarse' or 'woolly' . For several reasons, possibly including its relatively flat cross section (among other factors[2]), this hair type also conveys a dry or matte appearance.[3][4] Its unique shape also renders it very prone to breakage when combed or brushed.[4] Adjectives such as "kinky", "nappy", or "spiralled" are often used to describe natural afro-textured hair in Western societies.

Structure


Sub-Saharan African ethnic San woman of Botswana with natural afro-textured hair.

There are differences across ethnicity in the structure, density, and growth rate of hair. With regards to structure, all human hair has the same basic chemical composition in terms of keratin protein content.[5] However, Franbourg et al. have found that Black hair may differ in the distribution of lipids throughout the hair shaft.[5] Afro-textured hair was not as densely concentrated as other phenotypes.[1] Specifically, the average density of Afro-textured hair was found to be approximately 190 hairs per square centimeter. This was significantly lower than that of Caucasian hair, which, on average, produces approximately 227 hairs per square centimeter.[1] Further, Loussourarn found that Afro-textured hair grows at an average rate of approximately 256 micrometers per day, while that of Caucasians grows at approximately 396 micrometers per day.[1][6] In addition, due to a phenomenon called 'shrinkage', Afro-textured hair that is a given length when stretched straight can appear much shorter when allowed to naturally coil upon itself.[7] Shrinkage is most evident when Afro-hair is (or has recently been) wet.[7]

Evolution

See Main Article: Hair
The manifestation of Afro-textured hair, along with darkly complected skin, was initially an adaptation to the intense UV insolation of the tropics.

Cultural Significance

History in the United States


African-American woman wearing styled textured hair. Photo taken ca 1850.

Diasporic Black Africans in the Americas have been experimenting with ways to style their hair since their arrival in the Western Hemisphere well before the nineteenth century. In the U.S. following emancipation (between the late 1890s and the early 1900s), Annie Malone, Madam C. J. Walker and Garrett Augustus Morgan revolutionized African American hair care by inventing and marketing chemical (and heat-based) applications to alter the natural tightly curled texture. During the 1930s, conking (vividly described in "The Autobiography of Malcolm X") became an innovative method in the U.S. for Black men to straighten kinky hair; whereas, women at that time tended to either wear wigs, or to hot-comb their hair (rather than conk it) in order to temporarily mimic the same straight style without permanently altering the natural curl pattern.

A young African-American woman wearing styled textured hair. Photo taken between 1885 and 1910.


It has been debated whether hair straightening practices arose out of a desire to conform to a Eurocentric standard of beauty. Supporters of the second process believe that the same prejudice that viewed lighter skin as preferable to darker, held that straight or wavy hair (i.e. "good" hair) was preferable to tightly curled hair, and that this prejudice originated not from Black African Diasporic peoples but from European slaveholders and colonizers as part of the rhetoric used to support slavery and racially-based social class stratifications. Some claim that the dominant prejudice for Eurocentric ideas of beauty pervades the western world.[8] Further, the tendency to judge people, especially women, based upon their physical appearance speaks to the fact that this issue is especially poignant for African American females. In other words, it is a clear example of an inherent, interlocking conflict that Black women face with Western norms that involves both race (i.e. the fact that the natural afro-hair texture of sub-Saharan African descended peoples deviates starkly from the global 'norm'), and gender (i.e. the fact that the disproportionately strong need for women to be physically 'beautiful' is heavily marketed to all Westerners, and is thus reinforced by men (and women) of all races).

Madam C. J. Walker invented method that relaxed textured hair. Photo taken ca 1914.

The civil rights movement and black power and pride movements of the 1960s and 1970s in the U.S. created an impetus for African Americans to express their political commitments and self-love by the wearing of fairly long, natural hair. This contributed to the emergence of the Afro hairstyle into American mainstream culture, as an affirmation of Black African heritage, that "black is beautiful," and a rejection of Eurocentric standards of beauty. It has been used in songs, as a symbol of Black African heritage, notably in I Wish by Stevie Wonder. By the 1970s natural hair had evolved into a popular hairstyle.

Civil rights activist Angela Davis wearing an afro in 1973.

Over the years, the popularity of natural hair has waxed and waned. Today, a significant percentage of African American women elect to straighten their hair with relaxers of some kind (either heat or chemically based). This is done despite the fact that prolonged application of such chemicals (or heat) can result in overprocessing, breakage and thinning of the hair. Nonetheless, over the past decade or so, natural hair has once again increased in popularity with the emergence of styles such as cornrows, locks, braiding, twists and short, cropped hair, most of which originated in Ancient Africa. With the emergence of hip-hop culture and Caribbean influences like reggae music, more non-blacks have begun to wear these hairstyles as well. There has been a boom in marketing hair products such as "Out of Africa" shampoo to African American consumers. Slogans that promote a pan-Black African appreciation of Afro-textured hair include "Happy to be nappy," "Don't worry, be nappy," as well as "Love, peace and nappiness."[citation needed]

Controversy over natural Afro-textured hair in the United States

Although there has been a reemergence in the popularity of natural Afro-textured hair, it is still widely perceived by African-American women that straight hair is viewed as more professional. Women who feel pressured to straighten their hair for reasons related to this perception cite the fact that many high-profile professional Black women still straighten their hair.[9] There are, of course, very prominent exceptions, including: Ursula Burns, the first Black CEO of a Fortune 500 company and Leah Ward Sears, the first Black Chief Justice of a state court in the United States.
In 1971 Melba Tolliver, a WABC-TV correspondent, made national headlines when she wore an afro while covering the wedding of Tricia Nixon Cox, daughter of President Richard Nixon. The station threatened to take Tolliver off of the air until the story caught national attention.[10]
In 1981 Dorothy Reed, a reporter for KGO-TV, the ABC affiliate in San Francisco, was suspended for wearing her hair in cornrows with beads on the ends. KGO called her hairstyle "inappropriate and distracting." After two weeks of a public dispute, an NAACP demonstration outside of the station, and negotiations, Reed and the station reached an agreement. The company paid her lost salary and she removed the colored beads. She returned to the air, still braided, but beadless.[11]
A 1998 incident became national news when Ruth Ann Sherman, a teacher in Bushwick, Brooklyn, introduced her students to the book Nappy Hair by African American author Carolivia Herron. Sherman, who is white, was criticized by parents of black children, who thought that the book presented a negative stereotype.[12]
On Wednesday, April 4, 2007 radio talk-show host Don Imus referred to the Rutgers University women's basketball team playing in the Women's NCAA Championship game as a group of "nappy-headed hos" during his Imus in the Morning show. Bernard McGuirk then compared the game to "the jigaboos versus the wannabes," alluding to Spike Lee's film School Daze. Imus apologized two days later, after receiving criticism. CBS Radio canceled Don Imus' morning show on Thursday, April 12, 2007.
During August 2007, American Lawyer Magazine reported that an unnamed junior Glamour Magazine staffer did a presentation on the "Dos and Don'ts of Corporate Fashion" for Cleary Gottlieb, a New York City law firm. There was a slide show where the woman made negative remarks about black women's natural hairstyles in the workplace, calling them "shocking," "inappropriate," and "political." Both the law firm and Glamour Magazine issued apologies to the staff.[13][14] However, natural afro hair texture continues to be an issue in US workplaces.[15]
In 2009, Chris Rock produced Good Hair, a film which addresses a number of issues pertaining to African American hair, including the styling industry surrounding it, the acceptable look of African American women's hair in society, and the effects of both upon African American culture.

Natural Black Hair in other Diasporic Black Populations

Natural Black Hair in Continental African History

Natural black hair styling


Woman wearing long Afro-textured hair styled in twists.

Woman with micro-mini braids.

Woman wearing loose textured afro.

Because of the highly politicized nature of natural black hair in the United States of America and the intersectional pressures faced by black women in particular, the care and styling of natural black hair has become an enormous industry. Throughout the United States, there are a number of salons and beauty supply stores that cater solely to clients with natural afro-textured hair. Online forums, social networking groups and web-logs have also become enormously popular resources for Blacks in the exchange of styling ideas, techniques, and hair-care procedures.

Woman wearing long Afro-textured hair styled in dreadlocks.

There are a number of specific hair-styles that are commonplace in the canon of styles for natural Black hair, many the result of the experimentation of African slaves in the Western colonies. The afro is a large, often spherical growth of afro-textured hair popular in the Black power movement. The afro has a number of variants including the "afro-puff" and a variant in which the afro is treated with a blow dryer to become a flowing mane. The hi-top fade was common among African-American men in the 1980s and has since been replaced in popularity by the Caesar hair cut. Other styles include plaits or braids, the two-strand twist and basic twists all of which can form into manicured dreadlocks if the hair is allowed to knit together in the style-pattern. Basic twists include finger-coils and comb-coil twists. Dreadlocks, also called "dreads," "locks" or "locs," can also be formed by allowing the hairs to weave together on their own from an afro.
Manicured locks - alternatively called salon, or fashion locks - alone have a large variety of styling options that involve strategic parting, sectioning and patterning of the dreads. Popular dreadlocked styles include cornrows, the braid-out style or lock crinkles, the basket weave and pipe-cleaner curls. Others include a variety of dreaded mohawks or lock-hawks, a variety of braided buns and combinations of basic style elements.

Natural hair can also be styled into bantu knots, which involves sectioning the hair with square or triangular parts and fastening it into tight knots on the head. Bantu knots can be made from both loose natural hair as well as dreadlocks. When braided flat against the scalp, natural hair can be worn as basic cornrows or form a countless variety of artistic patterns.

Other styles include the "natural" (also known as a mini-fro or "teenie weenie afro") and "microcoils" for close-cropped hair, the twist-out and braid-out, "brotherlocks" and "Sisterlocks," the fade and any combination of styles such as cornrows and afro-puff.
It is important to note that an overwhelming majority of Black hair styles involve parting the natural into individual sections before styling.[16] Research shows that excessive braiding, tight cornrows, relaxing and vigorous dry combing of afro-textured hair can be harmful to the hair and scalp. They have also been known to cause ailments such as alopecia, balding at the edges, excessive dry scalp and bruises on the scalp.
  1. ^ a b c d Loussouarn G (August 2001). "African hair growth parameters". Br. J. Dermatol. 145 (2): 294–7. doi:10.1046/j.1365-2133.2001.04350.x. PMID 11531795. http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/resolve/openurl?genre=article&sid=nlm:pubmed&issn=0007-0963&date=2001&volume=145&issue=2&spage=294. 
  2. ^ Franbourg et al. "Influence of Ethnic Origin of Hair on Water-Keratin Interaction" In Ethnic Skin and Hair E. Berardesca, J. Leveque, and H. Maibach (Eds.). page 101. Informa Healthcare. 2007
  3. ^ Teri, LaFlesh (2010). Curly like me. New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons, Inc. ISBN 978-0-470-53642-1.
  4. ^ a b Dale H. Johnson, Hair and hair care, (CRC Press: 1997), p.237
  5. ^ a b Franbourg et al. (2007). "Influence of Ethnic Origin of Hair on Water-Keratin Interaction". In Enzo Berardesca, Jean-Luc Lévêque and Howard I. Maibach. Ethnic skin and hair. New York: Informa Healthcare. p. 101. ISBN 978-0-8493-3088-9. OCLC 70218017. 
  6. ^ Khumalo NP, Gumedze F (September 2007). "African hair length in a school population: a clue to disease pathogenesis?". Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 6 (3): 144–51. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00326.x. PMID 17760690. 
  7. ^ a b http://www.blackhairinformation.com/Natural_Hair/how_to_work_with_shrinkage_in_natural_curly_black_hair.htm
  8. ^ Byrd, Ayana D.; Tharps, Lori L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin's Press. ISBN 0-312-28322-9. 
  9. ^ Viscoti, Luke (Aug 3, 2009). "Do Blacks Need to Relax Their Natural Hair to Get Promoted?". http://www.diversityinc.com/article/4731/Do-Blacks-Need-to-Relax-Their-Natural-Hair-to-Get-Promoted/. Retrieved July 25, 2010. 
  10. ^ Douglas, William (Oct 9, 2009). "For Many Black Women, Hair Tells the Story of Their Roots". http://www.mcclatchydc.com/244/story/76915.html. Retrieved Dec 29, 2009. 
  11. ^ "1981:Television reporter Dorothy Reed is suspended for wearing her hair in cornrows". http://newswatch.sfsu.edu/milestones/decade1980_reed.html. Retrieved Dec 29, 2009. 
  12. ^ Leyden, Liz (1998-12-03). "N.Y. Teacher Runs Into a Racial Divide". Washington Post. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/national/frompost/dec98/hair3.htm. Retrieved 2008-06-05. 
  13. ^ Moe (2007-08-14). "'Glamour' Editor To Lady Lawyers: Being Black Is Kinda A Corporate "Don't"". Jezebel. Gawker Media. http://jezebel.com/gossip/your-roots-are-showing/glamour-editor-to-lady-lawyers-being-black-is-kinda-a-corporate-dont-289268.php. Retrieved 2008-06-05. 
  14. ^ Kym Platt (2007-09-07). "Glamour Apologizes". Ask This Black Woman. Archived from the original on 2008-04-17. http://web.archive.org/web/20080417024438/http://askthisblackwoman.com/2007/09/07/glamour-apologizes.aspx. Retrieved 2008-06-05. 
  15. ^ Having ethnic hair in corporate America
  16. ^ http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/6961935.stm

References

 

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care: Updates- Tangle Teezer and Watermelon Seed Oil

Curly Nikki Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care: Updates- Tangle Teezer and Watermelon Seed Oil: "Usual bun- hair gathered, pulled through a Goody Ouchless Band once, and only halfway through the second time. No donut. Hola Chicas! I'm..."

For those that love Olive Oil, Try Watermelon Seed Oil!

Enjoy,

CurLillies

Pros and Cons of Oiling Your Scalp

Pros and Cons of Oiling Your Scalp

When I read this article, I knew I needed to share it with everyone. One thing I remember when I was on the "creamy crack" was how weighed down my hair would get from using hair oil. Then, I had no clue as to how to care for my hair, but at that time I did not know that. Now, I have a total new outlook, and I take better care of my hair. Something that I do every night is use a light leave-in condition with a natural hair oil. My favorities are shea butte and olive oil. The article listed gives the pros and cons of using oil.

Enjoy!

CurLillies

Curly Hair Q&A: Deva Expert Shari Harbinger

Curly Hair Q&A: Deva Expert Shari Harbinger

Curly Hair did a wonderful Q&A with Shari Harbinger. I thought I would share with eveyone! Post comments. Tell me what you think!!!

Sunday, February 20, 2011

The BIG chop

Hello,

This is my fist blog. I big chopped December 26, 2010. I was very skeptical because I have attempted to go natural twice before with no success. I decided this 3rd time would be different. I did hours of research about what to do with my hair and what i learned really helped me this time.

1. Condition ritually- This is something I did not do well the first 2 times that I do out of habit now.
2. Moisturize-Find a moisturizer that works well with your hair.
3. Leave in conditioner- I use a leave in every night. I use a leave in that also detangles my hair every night.
4. Oil- Seal my ends with either olive oil or shea butter oil. This really helps keep the moisture in my hair.

Two months have gone by and I must say I love it. My hair is softer and healthier than what it has been in years. I love it.

I encourage everyone to post their experiences about going natual or being natural whether good or bad. Hope to hear from you soon!!!

Curlillies!!!